Weak 3 finger drag reddit.
I’ve heard it’s due to differing finger length.
Weak 3 finger drag reddit I have hangboarded 3 finger drag a bit in the past, but nothing too consistent. Pre-injury, I favored a 4 finger grip and would even have said that my 3-finger drag was a weakness. I do all the other grips as well but will more often then not 3 finger drag most holds if I can, especially on overhangs or roof climbs. Junior climbers are prone to over-using the 3-finger drag on edges because they feel weak at half-crimping and hence a key coaching tip is to encourage them to use their little finger and maintain a half-crimp. A week ago I was dragging on a climb and felt a “stretching” feeling and injured some muscle to do with my ring finger. A bit of background: BW=72kg MVC-7 half crimp= +40kg Stronger back-3 than front-3 half crimp. The drag improved quickly, was my strongest grip overall, and transferred very well to pockets. I 3-finger drag majority of the time and I think it’s due to my pinky being so short compared to my first 3 fingers. I've injured my wrist but can't quite figure out what I've actually done to it. In a 20 mil one arm hang I can add roughly 25 lbs more to 3 finger drag than half crimp, so I have a weak half crimp compared to other grips, but I don't half crimp very much on the wall. Make sure you're not bending at the MCPs of any fingers. I can hang +15/+20 back 3 for 10 seconds. May 10, 2022 · The catch is that on really hard moves it won’t provide as much traction or stability on edges as the full or half-crimp. I can only hang 10kg for front 3. Ive been climbing for a year now and your second paragraph described me exactly when i first started hangboarding several months ago. . - Open finger to open finger is a slightly longer chord than finger base to finger base, so dragging increases your reach. Start on your knees and slowly shift weight onto your fingers. I noticed on the wall i would never half crimp which made certain problems super difficult. I would assume it happened over the span of 11 years. I’ve heard it’s due to differing finger length. I believe Aidan Roberts is somewhat similar in that he is fairly weak on a hangboard in half crimp, but very strong with a flexed pinky. couldn't really remember what exactly my hand was doing when i hurt it, and couldn't tell what i Jul 26, 2021 · This may simply mean incorporating more open hand work into your current hangboard routine, or starting a brand new hangboard routine specifically for open hand work. had some swelling in my palm/ring A1 area and pain when trying the three finger drag. Start doing longer, lower intensity holds like 30-45 seconds with 1-2 minute rests for like three-four reps in a session to get full tendon activation. With a 3 finger grip the forces on the 3 hyperextended fingers are relatively equal -- this highlights the inherent weakness of the ring finger forcing you to work it. Pinky is the only one that can drag (depends on finger/hand anatomy). I have huge pain when dragging (basically can put zero weight on it), yet crimping is fine. I recommend a max hang protocol using an edge that allows an open hand or 3-finger drag position (often about 20-30mm) with 4-6 rounds of 10 second holds. I've seen really drastic gains in my 3 finger drag, and I have trouble understanding them. In all seriousness in my case when I say drag I'm talking about the 3 finger drag specifically, and when I say open-hand positions I'm normally talking about all grip types except half and full-crimp (3 finger drag, "quarter" crimp, holding slopers, pockets etc) Owing to a lot of sage advice I tend to drag a lot on holds. It was only when I got the Beastmaker and worked on open handed 3 finger drag that my niggles disappeared and I was relatively injury free for years. - In a crimp position, contact friction is dominated by the force pulling into hold and this force is maximized as you minimize contact area, So you aren't taking advantage of the friction of your skin at all. However the transfer to four-finger edges was poor — I got used to not using my little finger (a terrible habit!). Currently taking some time off and doing light exercises (reverse wrist curls). I literally couldnt make a half crimp position with my fingers collapsing into 3 finger drag. 3 finger drag form is much different than half crimp form. The index is the main differentiating finger between 4 fingers pseudo-open, and a strict half crimp, - The other fingers go where they want; Middle and Ring fingers can go above the edge/be slightly/moderating more in the direction of full crimp. These results make sense given the joint angles/muscle lengths at play. It's likely you're just weak in the 3 finger drag position because you've never trained it or you don't use it when climbing a ton (insert u/justcrimp rant here lol). Nov 10, 2024 · Like you, when I was younger I could crimp for days, but eventually I popped a pulley, recovered and carried on with growing niggles on my other fingers and growing time off. Aug 25, 2019 · Light high rep finger curls after climbing and/or light 3 finger drag; Mobility work in hot water bath or hot tub once a day; Extensor strengthening, if it helps; Massage, if it helps; Finger tip pushup supports hold (just holding the top position) with straight fingers. It seems like your open hand position (3 finger drag but also 4 finger open) is super weak and you are way more often using a near maximal force to stay on which gets you pumped quicker. I'm currently suffering from a tfcc issue and notice I have been using the three finger drag significantly more on my injured side. I used to hang +50 lbs open hand but could barely do bodyweight I would also recommend training two finger drag first honestly because the weak point in your three is going to be your ring finger most likely so get that up to a decent level. At this point I heard a pop in my wrist and it felt like it was pulled apart a bit. Hanging 4mm in any grip typ is super stong, no wonder that you rather crimp pinches etc. wow this seems so obvious but is really helpful! i hurt my hand moving quickly above a three-finger pocket a few weeks ago - heard/felt a little crunch in the base of my ring finger, but wasn't sure what happened. I was climbing last week and when doing a pretty hard climb (for me) I ended up in a position supporting most of my bodyweight with a 3 finger drag. Even more complicated is I have come across some discussion (via some of the Lattice folks) about training front/back 3 (in half crimp I believe) translating well to pockets of the 1 and 2 finger variety. I almost mentioned 3 finger drag, but figured it would complicate matters for OP/discussion. These means the ring finger stays weak crimping while the other fingers get strong -- leading to an imbalance and high potential for pulley poppin. hrvxyzgyhiuveefirwoldydfsooerhukhkxptbmfjzailbgbaskxz