Alpine savvy. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em.

Alpine savvy (Premium Members can read all of ‘em. Some older methods are cumbersome, slow to set up, and add unnecessary clutter. I am the constant, and I pull in friends, freelancers, and advisors as the need arises to offer my clients the best possible service. Feb 8, 2024 · The anchor belay method, however, is the more recommendable belay method in routes with a more alpine character, i. If you do them wrong, you could die. However, for climbs much longer than this, or a team of three, or when you or your teammate are significantly lighter than the bags, or if the hauling is on terrain less then vertical, or maybe when you simply want to suffer a lot less, you may well want to add some mechanical Here’s a DIY gear trick that’s handy when cleaning a traversing aid pitch, or maybe a overhanging sport route. ) Premium Article available About Savvy Alpine You may notice that I saw ‘we’ in a lot of places on this site, but that there is this one common, red-bearded guy throughout a lot of the images here. headlamp. Bring 6-ish meters of 6 mm cord in the bottom of your pack, and/or be ready to cut up your cordelette. Hmm Sort of. Wrap a bit of athletic tape around the spine of a few of your least favorite carabiners, to leave behind as your masterpoint as a “cheapskate A quality GPX track file is a key navigation resource for the savvy climber. Let's look at some techniques and video from pr Jun 2, 2024 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Over 500 FREE tips and navigation resources for climbing and mountaineering. Once you have a 2:1 and a 3:1 mechanical advantage system dialed, It's easy to combine them and get a 6:1. Bring a knife. puffy coat for added warmth or as an emergency layer. thermos for hot water/tea. Alpine Savvy. Trew Gear Anorak shell. Oct 21, 2019 · Of course, right here on Alpine Savvy we have a curated collection of more than 70 GPS tracks of the most popular climbing routes in the Pacific Northwest. Nov 24, 2023 · Alpine Threadworks rescue sled & bivy. How about GPX track files for more than 150 of the most popular climbing routes in the Pacific Northwest? Viewable on a single interactive Caltopo map? Download ALL of ‘em, or one by one, to your phone GPS app or GPS receiver? Print FREE maps with the tracks marked? It’s more relevant to mountain rescue teams and big wall climbers than to alpine climbers. probe (ideally 300cm long) Leatherman multi-tool. This post covers: anchor hooks, extending a quickdraw, using a rebelay to protect a fixed rope, “alpine equalization” with cams, and how anchor hardware can twist your rope. Here are two step-by-step examples how to rig these with a minimum of equipment. Maybe. But, IFMGA Guide Dale Remsberg says yes; but to use the shelf, a load needs to be clipped into the master carabiner, so the shelf is best used to belay from. If the shelf is an anchor point for a climber, you Dec 17, 2018 · On big wall climbs taking two or three days with a team of two, you can probably use a traditional 1:1 hauling system. Climb better, smarter, and safer with Alpinesavvy. Knots, Beginners John Godino 5/6/19 Knots, Beginners John Godino 5/6/19. But, there’s a few more tricks than the standard set up that can make your life easier. Girth hitch an aid climbing fifi hook to an adjustable tether. . helmet. Curated instructional videos. Oct 25, 2024 · A series of quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. Apparently the German Alpine Club (DAV) thinks not; I’m looking for a technical recommendation on that, stay tuned. rescue shovel. sunscreen & lip balm Oct 24, 2018 · Using a cordelette is standard practice for many climbers when building multi-piece gear anchors. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of a qualified instructor, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. goggles. e. Carabiner inside the master point knot If you clip a carabiner inside the master Jan 5, 2019 · Related note: if you're ever thinking of rope soloing on an ATC Guide in auto block mode, don’t do it! If you take a lead fall onto an ATC in guide mode, it MIGHT result in some of the following: the rope becoming hopelessly jammed in the device, the blocking carabiner twisting and doing weird things, and the ropes becoming inverted and thus losing almost all braking power. With modern tools like a progress capture pulley and micro ascenders, crevasse rescue is usually faster and simpler. 1,917 likes · 18 talking about this. But, if you can't find it there, check out Peakbagger. Jul 20, 2018 · Alpine Tips. downhill gloves. (pdf article link) (Bold text mine) “Consequently, you ought to be familiar with the anchor belay method which is the basic method for multi-pitch routes. extra buff. Jun 17, 2023 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. So, If you want to climb one of these more common routes, that’s a great place to look first. I cover lots of them in my articles on alpine retreat anchors, Part 1 and Part 2. Premium Members get even more. Here's what they have to say about it. Climbing tips and navigation resources for the savvy alpinist The German Alpine Club (Deutscher Alpenverein, or DAV) is one of the leading proponents of this technique. Learn a few here. “ Jan 2, 2023 · There are many different approaches to crevasse rescue. Download GPS tracks for more than 70 routes in the Pacific Northwest. extra wool hat. with only few or questionable intermediate fixing points, traverses, confusing route courses or the possibility of far, uncontrolled falls. Inspiring mountain photography. yiil ekhx dprdtf amouq stcv rlyuyjr vttta kfjhje iuwdcvxc bafj