Offset micro nuts sizes No offset (157) Yes full size (173) micro nut (29) Aid Only . A minor issue yes, but still a problem, and one which only exists with BD’s nuts. The Offset Micro uses a copper-iron mix with similar overall characteristics to brass. There are various types of nuts available by many brands in all sorts of colours, shapes and sizes. Like all other mini nuts in the review, they feature color coding around the swage of the nut to help with size identification. Exact dimensions for each size vary slightly, depending on the nut maker and the nut shape. I also have a double set of the DMM aluminum Peanuts (offset). Title says it really. Compare their sizes on nut comparison charts. Since then I have bought multiple sets of DMM alloy offsets and brass offsets. Generally, any nut below size 7 is considered a micro nut. The DMM nuts are far superior on Yosemite and Zion walls, in my opinion. I'm pretty sure the sizing doesn't line up between the two, the brass #1 is a super-micro aid piece, the #1 peenut is significantly bigger. Both alloys are softer metals than the more common aluminum. See full list on outdoorgearlab. But in flared cracks there’s nothing better and an offset nut will slot neatly in when a more regular shape would be too loose. MICRO NUTS Jan 6, 2020 · Relative to their size the HB Brass Offset performs quite well in more featured rock types, and this is one of their more notable advantages over the otherwise quite comparable offset micro nuts. They have a larger and deeper “ scope ” on the sides more commonly in contact with the rock that does a better job at accommodating more textured Oct 25, 2024 · These durable climbing nuts are very similar to other popular aluminum offsets available, though the red offset is a key size to complete the entire range of sizes between the largest brass offset and the smallest aluminum offsets: Rating Categories: DMM Alloy Offset: CAMP USA Pro Nut: Metolius Ultralight DMM Peenut: Black Diamond Offset Irregular is better. Each face is slightly concave and soft enough to give more "bite" to the placement, and the addition of an aluminium swage, or keeper which holds the wires parallel but allows one wire to slide, means that the nut is loaded more evenly on both sides making Apr 23, 2020 · The breaking strength is significantly higher in comparable sizes, so they're much more confidence-inspiring for free climbing. I can post some size-comparison pics later Jan 7, 2019 · A relative newcomer to the offset micro nut market, the Black Diamond Offset Micro offers some new tweaks on the older classic designs. Say you booty a nut and all you can Jun 4, 2025 · What are micro nuts? Micro nuts are climbing nuts that have been engineered to be extremely tiny. A set of offset nuts is a great addition to your rack, especially if you climb on granite a lot. Many of the advantages of the Micro Stoppers have potential downsides Nuts are the staple of any trad or aid rack as they provide solid protection when placed correctly. 10-32. Mar 2, 2010 · Metolius Astro Nuts are silicon-bronze micro climbing nuts available in five sizes. Mounting Fastener Thread Size. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Offset . Astro Nuts and Curve Nuts both feature a unique design with a vertical curve Nuts come in sizes ranging from 1 through 13. One of my trad friends says his BD #1 stopper is his most useful one. Small meaning Black diamond 1-4 stoppers or DMM micro wallnuts. Offset nuts aren’t as popular as ‘regular’ nuts and won’t fit in as many placements. Compare different climbing nuts. Aug 17, 2015 · I bought a set of the BD offset micro-nuts as my first pro specifically bought for aid climbing. Dislikes. Dec 13, 2009 · This gives many placement options and in this respect they barely beat out the Astro Nut and are a lot better than the DMM Brass Offsets. 1/4"-20. Micro Nut Sets can be bought for around $100. The Black Diamond Micro Stoppers are a popular choice, but the smallest sizes are only rated for direct aid. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. They are weaker than brassies but a different shape. Each nut is tested to verify soldering of stainless cable. I have small offset nuts but what do people think about normal small nuts. sold out - see DMM BRASS OFFSETS The DMM HB Brass Offset nuts work excellently in pin scars and small flared cracks, where the double taper resists rotating or rocking. However, in the smaller sizes, 4 & 5, this squarer geometry can make for more a more secure placement. Oct 19, 2021 · OFFSET NUTS. Gear strength is overemphasized by climbing theoreticians, most of the time the piece pulls before it breaks, but in these small sizes the wire does fail in practice and this considerable difference rules out BD for me. com Choose from our selection of offset nuts, including over 250 products in a wide range of styles and sizes. Black Diamond Offset Micro Stopper 1: Current: Black Diamond: Offset Micro Stopper: 1: Apr 28, 2019 · A number 2 BD microstopper is rated 3kN, a number 2 DMM IMP (same size) is rated 5kN. We have great value for money sets for entry level beginners and a high end, performance range for where every gram counts. As with their aluminum counterparts, the Metolius Ultralight Curve Nut, the swage is integrated into the head of the nut, making them lighter and less bulky than some other micro nuts. full strength (196) for aid use only (6) Color Color. 5/16"-18 OFFSET MICRO STOPPERS. Some of these climbing nuts can be as light as 4 grams but still hold 2kN. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. Although sizes 1-3 exist, for a first nut rack focus on sizes 4-13. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Sizes 1 and 2 are for direct aid only. . Some brands also make an even smaller size 0 nut. Starter nut sets include a few larger micro nut sizes in the assortment. vbyikd sqz wwnjj rglzwcv ovmwp vcy ptbqe jpwikw setj grqtfyj